Chocolatey Cheesecakes and Cricket Calamities: Tibet Quality Bakery in Mcleodganj
I had expected my short trip to Mcleodganj and Dharamshala, scenic hill towns in the Kangra Valley of Himachal Pradesh, in October ‘23 to be a mood-freshener. My two-day retreat was to be spent watching the Proteas (a team that I support) play World Cup Cricket at the world’s most aesthetic cricket ground, and trying out various Tibetan food items in McLeodganj – where the current Tibetan government-in-exile is headquartered, alongside a significant Tibetan refugee population. This was to be my third in-stadia game watching the Proteas this World Cup, having watched them dominate Sri Lanka in the season opener in Delhi and having travelled to Lucknow to watch them win against arch-rivals Australia. Having witnessed one of the greatest upsets of World Cup history just two days before - an underdog Afghanistan team emerging victorious in a tussle at Delhi against the defending World Champions England, it was also my fourth World Cup game of the season. Despite various stakeholders at Indian stadiums colluding to ensure stadium experience in India is one of the worst sporting products in recorded human history, I thoroughly enjoyed my experiences. So here I was, seated in an open-air stadium amongst the clouds and the stars, watching an in-form, top-of-the-table South Africa take on the bottom-seeded Netherlands, in a venue that was unlike the traditional subcontinental turners, on a mission to get their revenge against the Dutch, who pulled off a freak victory a year ago to deny the Proteas a Semi-Finals berth in the World T20 in Australia. The odds were in their favour. What could go wrong?
Pretty much everything. A ghastly bowling display by South Africa let the Dutch tail to waggle from 82/5 to 245/8 in 43 overs, and limped to 205 after a horror show with the bat on a tiny surface. Netherlands had done it again. Afghanistan’s triumph over England was no longer the greatest upset I had witnessed live, and as a hugely invested South Africa fan who went into this game expecting a De Kock century and Rabada 7-11, I was heartbroken beyond words.
You see, sport has this wonderful capacity to make you feel like you belong somewhere. You watch games over a period of years, track your favourite players, bemoan horrible tactics and cheer your beloved team, either from the bleachers, or from the comfort of your couch. The tales of South Africa’s World Cup Semi-Finals curse, or Punjab Kings’ playoff drought, are not merely stories of a team. They are the stories of the millions of fans as well – fans that have sunk in countless hours into the game, and have invested their emotions into the club. This is why Virat Kohli’s 71st century after a three-year century drought felt like a personal milestone to many – it is not merely Kohli who has spent countless nights in anguish over his shortcomings, but millions of fans across the world, who have followed Kohli’s journey from a brash, juvenile teenage sensation to one of the most elegant batters to have graced the cricket pitch, have experienced the same emotions as well. The ability of sport to fully engross you in its narrative is something it uniquely does better than all other mediums barring video games – there are no scriptwriters in this field (unless your name is Mohammad Amir), yet you are more intensely immersed in the tales it produces than you would be watching a fine piece of cinema, in which you are merely a passive viewer. Chennai losing the 2019 IPL Final to arch-rivals Mumbai by one run flung me into agony – one that was only soothed when they won their fourth title in Dubai two years later. I know people who still haven’t recovered from India’s nail-biting loss by only 12 runs to Pakistan in a thrilling Test match in Chennai, a game that was held over 25 years ago! The intensity of heartbreak that sport produces is unparalleled, and once again, I fell victim to it.
So, when I tell you that this little eatery’s fare was single-handedly responsible for lifting my spirits after what felt like a grief that would last me months, you better believe it’s a damn good place. Tibet Quality Bakery in Mcleodganj pushes the limits of what a ‘quality’ pastry can be. They have an assortment of freshly-baked items – pastries, cookies and croissants of a variety of flavours – including the rather unique “Yak Cheese” series of goods. I visited this place on the cold and grey morning after the game, and ordered a slice each of their Yak Cheesecake and Marshmallow Pie. As the first bite of the pastries made contact with my tastebuds, I knew I was in for a treat here. The Marshmallow Slice was as fluffy as the clouds that surrounded this hill station – with the rich, hard chocolate base underneath (as well as the chocolate sprinkles on top) providing wonderful contrast to both the flavour and texture of the marshmallow topping. The triangular chunk of goodness that was the Yak Cheesecake had joyous bits of coconut added, supplementing the flavour of the cheesecake, which was not very pungent, rather, a subtle, musky taste.
One of my favourite parts of visiting this bakery was talking to the owner – who is very hospitable and will have a nice chat with you about your travels! We exchanged stories of our journeys – I briefed him on my short stay in the town, and he told me of a time when he went to Noida (my then-residence), to visit a relative. I regret not being able to sample more from the eatery, as I were to leave the same night and I was rather full, having had a hearty meal of momos and Tsampa shake barely half an hour ago, so I decided to pack some fresh Tibetan Cookies for my journey home instead. The cookie was made of Tsampa – which consists roasted barley flour. Tsampa is a prominent feature in Tibetan and Nepali cuisines, and is quite similar to sattu that is widespread in neighbouring Bihar. It was soft and delightful to have as well. The next time I visit Mcleodganj, you shall find me seated on the stairs besides this small green shop, chatting to the owner while munching on some lemon pie. If you’re visiting Mcleodganj, I cannot recommend this small bakery enough for its lovely desserts.
I have attached photos of everything that Tibet Quality Bakery had on offer when I visited. Scroll to the end for the location.
Recommendations:
Yak Cheesecake (9/10), Marshmallow Slice (9/10), Tibetan Cookies (9/10). We encourage you to try other items as well.
Location:
Jogiwara Rd, McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh 176219
Thanks to Kamal for proofreading this piece.