Tidbits of Awadh in the Frenzy of Delhi : Lucknowi Galawati Kebab in Zakir Nagar

If one were to trace the origins of the Seekh and the Galawati Kebabs, they would notice a stark difference in the class of people who gave life to these delicacies. The Seekh Kebab is closely related to the Turkish Shish Kebab, which was a popular makeshift meal for soldiers stationed in the battlefield, whereas the Galawati Kebab has not-so-humble beginnings, having been born in the royal kitchens of medieval Awadh. Coincidentally, a similar distinction can be noticed upon mapping the social geographies of where these kebabs can be found in Dilli. The narrow bylanes of Muslim-dominated areas such as Chitli Qabar, Nizamuddin and Hauz Rani are dotted with numerous small hole-in-the-wall shops where local vendors sell delectable, chewy and inexpensive Seekh Kebabs, enjoyed as a quick evening snack by residents. In contrast, the Galawati Kebab is seldom found in these localities, and is mostly consumed in relatively upscale restaurants in posher areas, such as Al Kauser in RK Puram and Al Kuresh in Chanakyapuri, these places serving a different social function altogether, being occasionally visited with friends, a boss or family, as do most restaurants of modern, cosmopolitan cities.

But amidst the chaotic alleyways of one such locality in South Dilli, sandwiched between a lassi shop and a seekh kebab joint, there lies a tiny kebab shop that defies the above conventions. The shop's facade is decorated with a large copper vessel that livens up the surroundings with the aroma of kebabs being fried in ghee each evening, an upside-down iron tawa used for cooking parathas, and a sign that reads "Lucknowi Galawati Kebab", a title that is self-explanatory of much of the buzz around this little shop in the Jogabai Extension of Zakir Nagar.

The shop specialises in Galawati Kebabs made in chicken, mutton and buffalo meat. They also serve other offerings, such as Keema, Kofta, Qorma, Dal and so on. But my friend and I weren’t interested in them at all. We had come here to sample their pièce de résistance - the Buffalo Galawati kebabs. The kebabs are prepared by a rather interesting process, one that is distinct from the standard procedure of kebab-preparation. As with any Galawati kebab, which are known for their soft texture (the word ‘Galawati’ literally means melt-in-the-mouth), raw papaya is used while marinating the meat. This may sound odd to many, and may repulse others from trying this dish, but note that the end product does not taste (or smell) like papaya at all. The meat is then moulded into kebabs the shape of a hockey-puck, as opposed to the usual sausage-shaped Seekh or Kakori Kebabs. They are fried on both sides in ghee and served with sliced onions and coriander chutney (which I did not fancy that much, as the spice overshadowed the mellowness of the coriander, and I prefer the latter in my chutney as it balances out the spices of the kebabs).

We ordered their Varqi Paranthas, cooked on the upside-down tawa, which were wonderfully flaky from the outside yet soft from the inside, and two small bottles of Thums Up, which I have always regarded as a must-have while eating Mughlai fare, to go with the kebabs, which were served alongside a healthy helping of sliced onions and a coriander chutney that was relatively spicier than most chutneys I’ve had. We did not even need to bite into the kebabs to know that the dish in front of us would be a culinary delight. A touch softer than the union of a feather-quill and paper would instantly cause the kebab to crumble into pieces, a testament to their Awadhi legacy. The aroma of kewra invited me to sample the dish in front of me, and I could not wait any more. I hastily wrapped the kebabs in paranthas with one hand, and placed them in my mouth to be eaten. What followed was no less than a cosmological wonder - the burst of masalas in my mouth gave me a glimpse of what it must feel when a star bursts in flames to form a supernova. The texture of the kebab was a delight as well, it being softer than a ball of cotton candy, and the quality of the buffalo meat was excellent enough that words do not do justice to it. The flavour and textures of the paranthas and the onion were perfect partners, and each bite of the three elements above was accompanied by a few drops of Thums Up, which in any other context doesn’t excite me that much, but paired with kebabs, it was no less than an elixir. We finished the paranthas and the kebabs, and washed it all down with whatever remained of the Thums Up. 

I may have not tried Lucknow’s Galawati kebabs, as I am yet to visit the city, but this little shop gave me an insight into what the bazaars of Lucknow’s Chowk must taste like. I have spent a considerable chunk of the past 11 months of my stay in Dilli so far by exploring various types of kebabs in every nook and cranny of this mega-city. Believe me when I say this, these are the best kebabs that I’ve had in Dilli so far.

Recommendations : Buffalo Galawati Kebabs (9.75/10), Mutton Galawati Kebabs (9.75/10)

Location : https://goo.gl/maps/QJ3tAFSMcUmhTk9B8