The popularity of McLeodganj as a backpacker’s destination, owing to it being the home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government-in-Exile, means that there is no dearth of Tibetan food to be found. Yet, Kailash Kunga Cafe stands out amidst its peers. In my opinion, a lot of the Tibetan food served at cafes (even in Delhi), comes across as quite different to traditional, homemade Tibetan fare, using more spices and herbs and is a bit more heavier on the stomach, often due to fusion food such as gravy momos being featured on the menu, compared to traditional Tibetan fare that is quite light and bland. Understandably, a lot of tourist spots, as well as spots that primarily cater to demographics other than Tibetans, tend to lean into the former aspects. There is nothing wrong about dishes evolving with time, or with fusion, or in adapting a certain cuisine to different flavour palettes. It has led to glorious culinary innovations, most notably being the entirety of Indo-Chinese cuisine, but at times, you just crave more homemade, traditionally-cooked food.