Tandoori Momos at Hunger Strike : A Flavourful Fusion of two Contrasting Cosmos
The New York-style pizza, concocted by Italian immigrants to the USA in the early 20th century, with its humongous portions, thin crust, meaty toppings and a heavy covering of cheese, barely resembles its Italian predecessor, which has lighter toppings of basil and a mere touch of mozzarella, a chewier, fluffy crust, and is consumed with a fork and a knife instead of by hand. This is not to say that one is better or the other, or that American pizzas should be shunned from the face of the Earth because they choose to deviate from tradition. Like a stream of water flowing through rivers, ponds, waterfalls and lakes, only to enter the vast Pacific Ocean, taking on the shape of every water body it enters, food recipes are extremely fluid. They are shaped by the history of migration and cultural exchange. Dishes and ingredients find their way from one corner of the Earth to another, influencing local cuisines, and changing shape and form, influenced by local eating habits in return as well. The pizza is one example. The potato is another. A staple of modern Indian cuisine, used in a variety of sabzis, a filling in fritters and parathas, finger food such as dabeli and vada pavs, and so on, having been brought to India by Portuguese merchants only a couple of centuries ago.
Enter Hunger Strike - a shop that sells Tandoori Momos (which they claim to have invented) in South Dilli’s Amar Colony for the past twelve years. Their signature dish mixes two foods that Dilli has came to be known for over the years, both being relics of migration that this city has witnessed over the decades - the Tandoor, a clay oven originally brought to the metropolis by refugees from West Punjab after the partition, used to roast chicken and mutton, and the Momo, a steamed dumpling with an outer covering of maida and a meaty filling of chicken, buffalo, pig or goat meat, served with piping hot chutneys that contrast very well with the lighter-flavoured momos.
Hunger Strike bridges the gap between these two frontiers. It takes the simple momo, marinates it in a simple, yet mouth-watering gravy before setting it in the tandoor. When the momos exit the tandoor, it is a sight akin to a magician opening a box of nothingness to reveal a plethora of enchanted goodies. I am not exaggerating when I say that the tandoori momos at Hunger Strike have been the most perspective-altering dish that I have had in my brief stay in Dilli so far. It takes the best of both worlds - a fusion of two radically different cuisines with histories that have mostly been mutually isolated from one another - the meatiness and convenience of the momo, which contrasts wonderfully with the charred, smoky flavours of the tandoor. It is served with two sauces - a spicy, chilli one and a minty chutney, but frankly, I couldn’t care. The gravy that the momos are tossed in are enough to satiate one’s taste buds. Served with onion rings and a healthy sprinkle of coriander, these momos have to be on your to-eat list. Pair it with their refreshing Lemon Mint Soda and you’re good for the night.
Recommendations : Chicken Tandoori Momos (9.5/10), Lemon Mint Soda (7.5/10)
Location : Hunger Strike, Main Market, Block C, Amar Colony, Lajpat Nagar 4, New Delhi, Delhi
