Stadium Diaries: Arun Jaitley Stadium (Feroz Shah Kotla), Delhi
A Comprehensive Guide to Watching a Cricket Match in Delhi
Wait, you can’t eat a stadium, wasn’t this supposed to be a food blog? I’m expanding my content to general travel blogs, and will be starting off with Stadium Diaries - a series on sports stadium experiences. Aimed to serve as a guide, the language of the Stadium Diaries series shall be straight to the point, cutting down on the fluff and flowery prose that make up most of my food blogs.
Alongside Stadium Diaries, I shall be publishing travelogues, itineraries, long-form essays on my thoughts on travel, as well as documenting unexplored tourist spots that one ought to check out. Expect an occassional travel-related post on Fridays. Do make sure to let me know your thoughts on this expansion! Both positive and negative feedback is appreciated, as it helps me gauge which posts have a larger audience than others.
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Introduction
The Arun Jaitley Stadium (formerly Feroz Shah Kotla, and henceforth referred to as the Kotla in this piece) in Delhi is the second-oldest functional cricket stadium in India, established in 1883. It is situated next to the eponymous 14th century fort, the Feroz Shah Kotla, built by the Sultan of Delhi Firoz Shah Tughlaq, from which it derives its name. I have watched 4 games (a total of 6 days) of cricket here – one game of the Legends League Cricket in 2022 (two more games that I planned on attending here got washed out), the Border-Gavaskar Test between India and Australia in 2023 that lasted three days, and two World Cup games between South Africa and Sri Lanka and England and Afghanistan in 2023. As of now, it remains my most-visited stadium and will be summarizing my experience in a few key points as outlined below.
DISCLAIMER –
Rules and regulations (such as whether you’re allowed bags in VIP Stands, ticket box offices being open on match-days etc) are not always uniformly enforced, and readers are requested to do their own research before attending games. Additionally, facilities such as food and drink change depending on who is responsible for organising a particular game – WPL / IPL franchises tend to get involved in their respective domestic home games while a larger burden falls on the BCCI / DDCA during International games. I shall keep updating this piece as and when I get to know of any updates / changes made.
Seating
Most stands in the stadium have restricted views due to obnoxious pillars and roofs obstructing your views. Any given seat that is worth purchasing is a trade-off between affordability, good viewing angles, and infrastructural obstructions. The lack of decent viewing angles is what makes viewing a game at the Kotla so frustrating, it is one of the more outdated major stadiums in the global cricket realm and is a shame that such is the state of the primary cricket ground for the capital of the biggest cricket country on Earth. Ground Floor seating throughout the Kotla is also fenced off from the field for safety purposes, so if you’re seated too close, you might feel like you’re watching the game from your prison cell. Exceptions are Hill A, Hill B (where there’s a transparent separator) and the Old Clubhouse First Floor (where there are no obstructions, it being located at a slight elevation right above the sight-screen). One positive of viewing games at the Kotla is the distance between the boundary and the stands is not a lot. You’re closer to the action which makes for a thrilling experience.
Do note two things. Firstly, in some photographs attached below (such as the Old Club House), players look like ants. For first-time stadium-goers, do not worry, this is merely an illusion created by the camera lens. Players look much larger from stadium seating.
Secondly, information on pricing is not included below, due to there being no fixed rates on tickets, they keep changing as per the tournament being held, and these fluctuations are quite extreme (Old Club House First Floor tickets frequently go for more than 5000/- in the IPL or marquee ODIs, but were being sold for 200/- this Women’s Premier League). Go to PayTM Insider or BookMyShow for information on pricing.
North Stand
Generally, the straighter the view, the better the viewing experience, as it replicates the viewing angle you would get on TV, allowing the viewer to notice minute details such as swing, spin and seam movement. The Kotla’s North Stand, recognizable as the ugly parking lot with Pan Bahar boards splattered all over it, has affordable straight view seating, while the Old Clubhouse opposite to it is the premium version of it. The North Stand is divided into three parts – North East Stand, North West Stand, and North Central Stand – with the former two having four floors (ground, first, second, third) and the latter having two floors (second, third), due to the sightscreen and cameras occupying the ground and first floors.
North West / East Ground Floor –
Probably one of the better stands in the Kotla. If you sit straighter to the pitch, to get the ideal viewing angle, you’ll be hindered by pillars in front of you / the roof above. If you sit squarer, say, a long on or long off view, you can enjoy the game underneath the open sky, but it is an inferior viewing angle (though, it is probably the best place to view a limited overs game from). Pick your poison. Good value for money.
North West / East First / Second Floor –
Not recommended. The way the pillars are laid out impedes the straighter angles. Not only will the low roof make you feel cramped, but the way the floor is laid out means that you won’t be able to view action happening near the straighter boundary (the one that is close to you).
North West / East Third Floor –
Recommended for a decent view of action happening on the pitch, such as a Test match, as no roof above makes for a pleasant experience, but obstructions make it difficult to recommend for a limited overs game. The floor here hampers the viewing angle in a lot of seats, as action near the close boundary isn’t visible. In seats wider to the pitch, you can’t see much beyond the 30-yard circle at times. In seats straighter to the pitch, the entire on-side (or off, depending on if you’re in the West or East stand) boundary is cut off, and you’re left with only 50% of the field being visible. Again, pick your poison. Another issue with top floor seating across the Kotla is that it tends to be too steep. That means that view of the action on-field tends to be from a bird’s eye view, and certain characteristics of the game such as dip and bounce can be hard to notice. Though, it remains the best angle for judging lengths. Regardless, it is very good value for money.
North Central Third Floor -
Very much recommended, excellent view and good bang for your buck. This is the better alternative to the North East or North West Stands, as the only obstruction you will have is the floor blocking most of the straight boundary in front of you. However, the rest of the ground is open to viewing, including the entirety of the on / offside fields. Viewing angle may be a bit too steep for one’s liking.
North Central Second Floor -
Doesn’t go on sale that often. Has a straight view, though also, obstructions induced by pillars, the roof and the floor.
West / East Stands
The West and East Stands are the most affordable stands in the ground. You get a side view of the pitch which makes it hard to recommend for something like a Test match, where not a lot of boundaries are hit, and deviations off the pitch such as spin or seam make up most of the enjoyment. The craziest atmosphere in the Kotla tends to come from either side stands, specifically the ground floors, with the loudest banter and chants originating here (some of which also translate into fist-fights). The Kotla crowd is no Wankhede or Edgbaston, but they’re quite loud even in Test games. The biggest plus of the ground floors is that they do not have any obstructions, which makes it an easy recommendation if you’re not bothered by a side view. Overall, I still recommend the W/E Ground Floors, and they’re great value for money, especially in a limited overs game.
The First or Second Floor seating is not recommended due to the triple threat of pillars, roof and floor obstructing your view. If you sit in the front row, then it wouldn’t be much of a hindrance, but it’s better to get a Ground Floor seat.
Top floor seating is decent, but not recommended much either because the floor obstructs a significant portion of the ground, up to the 30-yard circle in some cases.
Old Club House
This is easily the best stand in the entire ground. While I haven’t got the opportunity to view the game from the second floor of this stand, the first floor is located right above the sight-screen. This means that your seats are located at an ideal height to observe dip and bounce, as well as spin and seam. I had the fortune of watching the Day 3 of the India-Australia Test match from here and it remains the best viewing experience I’ve had in cricket so far. A teeny bit of the straight boundary is still blocked off by the sight-screen (though not as much as the top-floor seating, where as much as up to the 30-yard circle is blocked off), but it honestly is not much of a hindrance and should be manageable.
The Old Clubhouse is also a “premium” or “VIP” stand. Restrictions on taking in bags, chargers, purses and other items are generally lax here, as ground security believes that the well-off spectators who pay upwards of five thousand rupees for a game won’t throw their belongings on the crowd in fury. Food is included as well, though, its quality may be questionable. When I went for the India – Australia Test in 2023, they gave us a sad package of chips, a cold sandwich, some Fresca, dry kachori, cookies and the likes. Overall, I highly recommend this stand if you’re willing to pay the premium.
Hill A / Hill B / Platinum Gallery
“Hill A” and “Hill B” sections of the ground, which are also premium stands, aren’t worth it in purely viewing terms, given the angle from which you view the game is fairly wide of the pitch, and other stands (NE, NW, E, W) would have fairly similar viewing angles for a fraction of the cost. Of course, you have the added benefit of not having obtrusive pillars and lax regulations on security, but honestly, if you’re shelling the big bucks for something like a Test match, just go all the way and book some Old Clubhouse tickets. For more costlier games like the IPL or ODIs, this might make sense.
The Platinum Gallery has a slightly worse viewing angle, located much wider of the pitch, but it’s located right by the Virat Kohli Pavilion, and you get to watch cricketers from up close walk to and from the ground and the dressing room. If that’s something you value, go for it.
Atmosphere
The Kotla tends to draw great crowds, even for Day Tests on weekdays, owing to its central location in the city and good public transport to most parts of Delhi-NCR. Expect a wild, loud full house, as the Delhi crowd is no stranger to banter and sledging. One of my favourite parts of the Australia – India Test in 2022 was the crowd chanting “DRS – DRS” at every LBW or caught behind appeal that the umpires declined during India’s batting innings, as Australia had exhausted all of their reviews quite early. However, this can be a hit-or-miss experience, as they’re not as organised as the Barmy Army or North Stand Gang. Neutral games in particular might be underwhelming – the crowd wasn’t as loud as I would’ve desired in the South Africa – Sri Lanka World Cup game in 2023 despite SA posting 428 on the board with three swashbuckling centuries by De Kock, van der Dussen and Miller. Though, IPL stars, sixes and wickets generally are cheered even in neutral games. The Afghanistan – England game was quite loud, though, it may have benefited from being hosted on a Sunday. The West Stand Ground Floor is the loudest, followed by the East Stand. Do go in with high hopes though, the crowd always shows up, and makes it a worthwhile experience.
Infrastructure
The stadium has a lot of gates which makes getting in and out not much of a hassle, though, some of those gates can get quite crowded during entry / exit as they pass through narrow residential alleyways, and crowds tend to accumulate on the main road.
The Kotla was renovated just before the World Cup, which fixed a lot of the problems that it had. The seats are new and comfy, the washrooms are sparkly clean, there’s facilities for free drinking water, the North Stand has a lift that goes all the way up to the Third Floor. The East Stand doesn’t seem to have a lift, as per a friend who recently attended a game at the Kotla during the World Cup. I’m unsure of the other stands, I didn’t attend them after the renovations.
Despite the renovations, the Kotla has some fundamental design flaws that hamper your viewing experience, particularly, the pillars and rooftops that I describe in detail in the section on seats.
Food in the Stadium
Food options during the World Cup were quite good and hygienic due to several brands opening their stalls there, albeit were slightly on the pricier side.
Wow! Momo served Steamed, Fried, Pan Fried and Peri Peri Momos, Moburgs, Spring Rolls and Fried Rice / Noodle Bowls (both vegetarian and chicken options available).
Bikanerwala served Samosa, Vada Pao and Paneer Tikka Sandwiches.
Faasos served Potato Wedges, Chicken Meatballs, and Wraps (which felt the most value-for-money option to me)
Domino’s served both vegetarian and non-vegetarian 6 inch pizzas starting from 300/-.
Biryani Blues had Vegetarian, Paneer and Chicken Biryani.
Chhole Rice was sold for 150/- as well, which was decent.
Apart from the above, I only tried Faasos’ wraps, which felt worthwhile for my buck, tasted okay and were filling enough to last you the better half of an ODI or a Test Match.
Connectivity
Next-door to Old Delhi, the Kotla is placed at a convenient location which makes travel to-and-from the stadium not much of an annoyance. Additionally, it is well-connected by road and by metro. The Delhi Metro’s Violet Line stops at the Delhi Gate Metro Station. Delhi Gate’s Gate no. 5 and the Kotla’s Gate no. 16 and 17 are practically adjacent to each other. The metro tends to get quite crowded, so it is suggested to wait a bit before departing (we at spicydabeli do not condone leaving a game of cricket early unless absolutely necessary). Metro timings often extend beyond its regular timings (midnight) on game-days. A variety of buses depart from near the Stadium, and autos are readily available as well. Overall, the Kotla is very-well connected to the city, and getting to-and-from the stadium shouldn’t be an issue.
Primers before watching a cricket game in India
Do not take any valuable belongings inside with you. Headphones, chargers, powerbanks, books, pens, pencils, umbrellas, sunscreen, flagpoles and even coins from your wallet will be thrown out by security, with nothing more than dicey, makeshift locker systems in place before the gates to the stadium. This is one of the worst parts of watching a game in India. It is even worse for women, as purses aren’t often allowed and women’s clothing tends to have less pocket space, making it hard to carry phones and cash alongside you. Generally, the premium stands are lax on these regulations (do read the disclaimer at the start of this piece), but if you want to watch a game from regular seating, you’ll have to endure some pain.
Physical tickets are mandatory. If you’re booking your tickets early enough online, they usually have an option for home delivery – select that. It’s worth paying the extra money in exchange for a hassle-free ticket pickup arrangement. If that option is not available, probably because ticket sales were announced late or you booked your tickets a short while before the game, collect your tickets at the earliest. Most booking sites will ask you to collect your tickets before the match-day, claiming that the box office shall remain closed on the match-day to reduce crowds. This is mostly just fear mongering. To the best of my knowledge, box offices across the country remain open on game-days. HOWEVER, it is not recommended to wait until the last minute to collect tickets, as you risk running into long queues and rowdy crowds.
Nearby Food Places
Links to long-form reviews on places that I have tried have been linked within the text.
On the Daryaganj Road -
Changezi Chicken – Changezi Chicken, Afghani Chicken, Chicken Kali Mirch, Chicken Satay
Zaika – Chicken Tikka
Jahangeer Foods – Mutton Nihari, Chicken Lollipop
Further inside Old Delhi -
Haji Mohammed Hussain* – Fried Chicken
Taufiq Dilpasand Biryani* – Achari Biryani
Hilal Hotel – Nihari
Cool Point* – Shahi Tukda with Rabri / Icecream
Sharbate-Mohobbat at a variety of street stalls
Do check the location of spots in Old Delhi, as well as the kind of meat served. Some of these may be far inside the market, requiring you to walk a lot.
*These spots have branches on the Daryaganj Road, which is closer to the Kotla, but I’ve not been to their branches, so I can’t assure that the quality of the original establishment transfers completely.
A two-line review of the Kotla
Seating arrangements and terrible viewing angles makes for a frustrating spectator experience, further compounded by cricket stadiums in India treating you like animals in a cage. If you do end up going though, let it all loose and enjoy the wacky crowds.
Thanks to Raghav for sharing images that I can use.
Credit to Wikimedia Commons for the image used in the thumbnail / social media previews.
Are ddca lounge seats available for normal people and if they are then how's the experience. Where do the celebrities sit?
This is surely the most amazing article i have read about the stadium, what is the scene of parking?